"But as for you, Bethlehem Ephrathah, too little to be among the clans of Judah, from you One will go forth for Me to be ruler in Israel. His goings forth are from long ago, from the days of eternity."
Micah 5:2
‘Tis the season. We sing the familiar words, “Oh, little town ofBethlehem, how still we see thee lie. Above thy deep and dreamless sleep, thesilent stars go by.” And we contemplate the place where our Savior was born.Are the song lyrics correct? What is the truth about the setting wherein Jesusbecame flesh?
For most who know the story, see a creche in a store, or watch themovie, it’s a lovely, iconic scene. A donkey, cows, sheep, maybe a chicken ortwo rest in their enclosure for the night. It’s a small wooden structure with afeeding trough, or manger, filled with hay. The animals are motionless. The hayis clean and fragrant. And the stable is nestled in the small, quaint villageof Bethlehem whose citizens are peacefully sleeping the night away. Mary’sdress is pristine blue. Joseph’s beard is neatly trimmed. And the baby is amiracle of good behavior.
Bethlehem did have many noteworthy attributes for its residents—likelyunder 1,000 lived there back in the day—to enjoy since its inception around thefourteenth century BC as a Canaanite settlement. Perched 2,700 feet above sealevel, the hills surrounding it were terraced for farming of fig trees andalmonds, and for sheep to be pastured, while grain grew in the valley. Jacobburied Rachel near its gate. It was the home of Ruth. And the birthplace ofDavid, who would be anointed by Samuel there.
What about the probable reality of that blessed night when Marybirthed Jesus? The enclosure was likely a cave; caves are notorious for beingdamp, dark, and cold. Animals are smelly and restless in the presence ofstrangers. The hay in the trough has been nibbled by cud-chewing cows. With abright star illuminating the town, one wonders how much sleep anyone wasgetting. Mary had been traveling on foot or on a donkey, not the best way tostay neat, and she had just given birth without benefit of pain medicine orclean linen. Joseph had no access to a barber. And baby Jesus? Babies cry;that’s how they expand their lungs at birth. Fully God, absolutely. But also,fully man, with all that human babies encompass.
To get an up-close and personal view of the nativity, a trip topresent day Bethlehem answers every question, right? Hardly. Bethlehem islocated five miles southwest of Jerusalem. It is now Palestinian territory,which means a visit is only possible if political relations are stable—whichoften is not the case. Today, the Muslim and Christian population of 25,000makes it more modern city than quaint village. Although streets are more on thenarrow side, they accommodate cars and busses that carry hordes of touristspast restaurants, gift shops, and businesses.
Atop the reputed site of Jesus’ stable/cave birthplace is TheChurch of The Nativity, a Byzantine basilica. Constantine built the originalversion in 333 AD. The imposing stone structure gives no indication that astable ever shared the same space. As with all ancient sites, “tradition” isemphasized more than verifiable fact, although writings dating as far back asthe 100s AD believed this location is the real deal. Once inside the church, aflight of stairs clogged with other pilgrims and the merely curious leaddownward. The place that guides say, “marks the very spot of his delivery,” isnot the stuff of imagination. The opening to a small cave is squared off,draped with ornate red brocade fabric, and surrounded by an intricate goldscreen. In the front on stone flooring there is an indentation where one istold, “this is the place of the manger.” It is marked by a silver star put there in1717 AD.
There are as many reactions to visiting Bethlehem in thetwenty-first century as there are people visiting. Some walk silently past thegrotto. There is jostling in the crowded space to get up close and touch thespot. Eyes close. Tears flow. Poses are struck. Selfies are taken. Reverenceand apostacy battle side by side. Not exactly the highly spiritual experience abeliever anticipates.
But as important as Bethlehem is, it’s also important that it notbecome the thing that is worshipped, an idol to believers or simply part of thehistorical secular experience. This writer has been blessed to visit the mangertwice. The experience, while awesome from the perspective of standing on holyground, didn’t rock my world as anticipated. On the first visit, it leftfeelings of confusion and inadequacy. Why didn’t the place of my Savior’s birthbring soaring joy, gratitude, and peace to my soul?
Prayer brought answers. It’s not the place. It’s the Person whobrings soaring joy, gratitude, and peace to every soul. The reality ofChristmas is the fulfillment of ancient prophecies about the coming of the trueMessiah, such as:
Prophecy, Isaiah 7:14
“Therefore, theLord himself will give you a sign: the virgin will conceive and give birth to ason, and will call him Emmanuel.”
Fulfillment, Luke 1:35
“The angelanswered, ‘The Holy Spirit will come upon you, and the power of the Most Highwill overshadow you. So the holy one to be born will be called the Son ofGod.’”
That God was willing to come to us in a sinful, violent world,clothed in flesh and delivered in a stable, is hard to even grasp. That thistiny, fragile infant would grow to be a man who would end his human life in asinful, violent world stripped of flesh on a cross, is even more astounding. Itcould have happened in any town. But to fulfill Scripture, Bethlehem is wherebaby Jesus uttered his first cry.
Regardless of the physical atmosphere in Bethlehem that night solong ago, we know there had to be a quiet, spiritual stillness in anticipationof Emmanuel’s birth. God with us. Savior. Friend. The world held its collectivebreath as darkness hovered over humanity. Until the silence was broken. By ababy’s cry. The angels’ chorus. Shepherds’ praise. And the darkness fled as theLight of God took his rightful place with his people.
Oh, little town of Bethlehem. In thy dark streets still shineth theeverlasting light. The hopes and fears of all the years are met in you fromthat holy night and forevermore.